After a three-hour drive, Freddie dropped us off in Alto Cruz Pampa, where we were greeted by mule drivers and their dogs
The long approach to base camp was beautiful. We trekked up the length of this valley before climbing 1000 ft up a valley to the left
Alex and Nico on the approach
Views of our objective, Chachacomani, 19,930 ft
Nico, an aspiring mountain guide, bouldering on the way to base camp
We established camp in this beautiful meadow
After a 1AM start, daybreak was quite welcome. Here, Alex leads to the col.
Following the last section to the col. The glacier was heavily crevassed. Lake Titicaca in the background. Photo: Alex von Ungern
The vast Amazon basin is covered in clouds below. It's amazing in the Cordillera Real to see both Lake Titicaca and the Amazon from the same vantage point.
Chachacomani (summit is on the right). We chose the steepest line, extending vertically down from the true summit.
Alex leads the lower face past the awful bergschrund.
The face became progressively steeper
Me following the lower face. Photo: Alex von Ungern
Alex caught me in the sun-shade line as I follow the face! Photo: Alex von Ungern
Finishing one of the upper pitches. Conditions were quite variable, but many of these sections were horrible unconsolidated snow. Photo: Alex von Ungern
Looking down at the crux. It was necessary to make some mixed climbing moves to overcome the incredibly steep and loose snow in the gully.
Summit with the Amazon behind. Photo: Alex von Ungern
Titicaca
Our team, L to R: Me, Alex von Ungern (guide), Nico (cook), and Freddie (driver)
